Buenos Aires is the home of a famous women’s rights activist, a wizard with a football and a democratically elected female president. Evita Perón, Diego Maradona and Cristina Kirchner, the current president of Argentina, have all etched their legacies in the hearts and minds of the porteños (Buenosaireans)

Buenos Aires hugs the La Plata river and beams inland. The city has grown significantly since 1536 when its founder, Pedro de Mendoza, settled in the region – to the great displeasure of the natives. The Spanish would wait half a century to truly establish their presence in this region.

Buenos Aires is described universally as the Paris of South America. I have been to Paris and I have to disagree. Buenos Aires has Latin warmth and passion. Paris is like a Russian winter – inhospitable. Yes, there is evidence the architectural landscape screams of French neoclassical influence, but that is where the similarities cease.

When to go?
As a general rule, I travel to experience better weather, so I would recommend December to early April.

Where to stay?
I would recommend one of the following districts: Palermo, Recoleta, Belgrano and Puerto Madero. Where one is willing to sleep is a personal choice coloured by location, taste and budget. I, for one, require an element of comfort. Secondly, I am a visual person by nature. Hence it comes as no surprise that I checked into the beautiful NH City & Tower, no doubt to the chagrin of the accounting department. This Spanish creation, in close proximity to the iconic Plaza de Mayo, is an example of exquisite design meeting lifestyle. I assure you, leaving the hotel can feel like being handed the keys to an Aston Martin just minutes after publicity supporting a no-driving campaign: plain unfair.

What to do
A city so rich with cultural activities lends itself to those willing to step outside of their comfort zone. The travel guidebooks would have you restricted to prim and proper touristy places, experiencing replicas of Soho and Chelsea. Yes, sample the tried and tested, but for a unique experience, which crosses the tourist-local boundary, step outside this realm.

Galleries

Appetite: www.appetite.com.ar
Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires: www.malba.org.ar
Belleza y Felicidad: www.bellezayfelicidad.com.ar


Markets
Recoleta Craft Fair, Plaza Dorrego and San Telmo Market.

Must visit landmarks
Visit www.buenostours.com and a guide will take you to all the major landmarks and it’s all in English.

Dining
I will be forthright: despite the growing number of health bars, Argentina is for meat eaters and insomniacs. Devour some of the tastiest and largest cuts of red meat on the planet at 23:00 and beyond. Have the same portion of meat with a few bottles of red wine in, say, London, and you may just max out your Barclays card.

Porteños love their food and nowhere is that more apparent that at Casa Felix. Diego Felix hosts 12 guests, who have never met, in his own home. This is Latin warmth and hospitality. One feels like an invited guest in a friend’s home. Diego is a fascinating character who can have you rapt as he describes his journey and life philosophy. The food, however, will probably not win recognition from the International Restaurant and Hotel Association, but its charm will leave an indelible mark on your soul.

More highly recommended restaurants
- Freud & Fahler.
- Desde el Alma is perfect for couples.
- Casa Cruz is a super spot for drinks and it won’t hurt to dress smart.
- Sucre is simply hot.
- Bar 6 is a Palermo hotspot.

Nightlife
The nightlife deserves a whole separate section. Such is the range of activities that only your lack of fitness will hold you back. Porteños eat late and certainly party late. You could finish dinner at midnight or 1am and head out for pre-club drinks. You will quickly realise getting “inebriated” is as classy as ordering fish only to drink it with red wine. In Buenos Aires, there is an air of restrain in their drinking, as if getting “battered” might bring bad luck upon your family name. Secondly, Porteños can dress. Thirdly, there is an army of beautiful people in this city. My advice: learn some Spanish if you really want to socialise.

Hot spots
- Urarte for super cocktails
- Niceto
- Pacha
- Million

Shopping
Anything and everything fashion-related is best found in Palermo.
The one place definitely worth visiting for footware is 28sport (www.28sport.com)

Argentina has a painful history, not too different from ours. The economic crash in 2001 obliterated vast amounts of wealth and set the nation on the back foot. Today, they battle against the recession and large international loan repayments. Porteños are warm people and, most importantly, they are survivors. I suspect the beauty and allure of Buenos Aires will be preserved, through all manner of hardship, for posterity.